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Did we ever really have time to knit gaiters? Indeed we did, for Harrison’s Complete Guide To The Work-Table says: “… a very warm covering for the feet and legs, and will be found very useful for ladies who reside in the country and who have to drive some distance to dances or dinner parties, or for daytime drives in cold weather.”

This useful book of the late Victorian years gives winding instructions for the knitting of these gaiters, also offering a smart version for the gentlemen, including a nifty pair of knee-caps.

The gaiter, mainly composed of garter stitch was a type of stocking worn over regular silk hosiery to add an extra layer for warmth in those chilly carriage rides. They were designed footless, with an instep piece that covered the shoe, fastening under the foot with a two-inch strap of webbing.

To make up the article, six ounces of 4-ply Peacock yarn in white or black is required and a set of four “pins” No. 10 measured on Walker’s bell gauge. Commencing at the thigh and knitting in rows, a typical ribbing starts off the pattern which is then continued on in regular garter stitch. A gusset is worked under the knee for comfort when sitting. Twenty four rounds of knit two, purl two ribbing encircle the calf. Some decreasing follows and once the length is reached, shaping of the ankle begins.

After a set of gaiters for the family, you could happily venture on to the knee-caps, decorating these with a frilly crochet edge. Of course the industrious woman would always be clicking away on yet another stocking. She would commonly wear a sort of apron bag around her waist into which she dropped her current work so it was every ready to whip out when there was an idle moment, such as waiting for the kettle to boil. It was frequently recommended to have something on hand to keep the fingers busy so that no time was wasted just sitting and encouraging pretentious thoughts to arise.

A clever housewife could produce a basket of the most wondrous novelties. There was a true sense of pride in lovingly producing gaiters, knee-caps, elbow warmers, wrist covers, garters, long gloves, woolen bodices, Canadian bonnets, wrappers and all manner of winter necessities. She could also squeeze in ear protectors for the horse, and when there was nothing left to do there were never enough bootlaces. Yes, these were knit in strong, black glazed cotton using the i-cord technique (tube knitting).

I will be posting my own gaiter design shortly called Damson. Meanwhile Harrison’s Complete Guide To The Work-Table presented this pattern for its wide-eyed readers:

MATERIALS

6oz of 4 ply wool

Set of 4 double-pointed needles (sample used 3.25mm/UK 10/US size 3)

SIZE

As is usual, the original pattern gives no idea of sizing — only that it is a “ladies”. Knitted according to the instructions it comes out exceedingly petite — make it for your pet turkey. If you’ve got an average leg, take scrap wool, cast on the required stitches and see how this goes around your thigh. Since it is knitted from the top down, you can see if this will fit. If you have a meaty leg, try knitting the gaiters in 5 ply wool on needles to suit. You can even do these in 8 ply if that’s what you need. (To give you an idea of measurement, my sample gaiter was 10 inches across measured over relaxed garter stitch at thigh).

A little garter to match can quickly be knitted in plain knit to your thigh measurement. Cast on about 8 stitches and continue until long enough to tie up. No modern elastic! but you can use India Rubber (whew!). Whatever, you will cut off your circulation and have seductive blue thighs to expose. Hence, the suspender belt was invented.

Begin at the top of leg. Cast on 62 sts on one needle.

Rows 1-34: K2, P2 across row.

Rows 35-60: Knit all rows in garter stitch.

Rows 61-100: K2TOG at beg and end of each alternate row until 22 sts remain.

Now cast on 23 sts on a third needle, work on these, and across the 22sts, cast on 23 more sts. You will have 23 sts each side of the 22 sts which form the centre of the knee.

Knit 24 rows on all sts, then 24 rows of K2, P2 rib. Knit 34 plain rows of garter stitch.

In the next round the decrease for the calf is commenced. K2, K2tog, K60, K2tog, K2. Knit 5 rows without decreasing, then work a row, decreasing after the two first, and before the two last sts. Continue to decrease with five plain rows between, until you have decreased 9 times. Work 32 rows plain.

Now divide the stitches on 3 needles, 16 on each side and 18 in the centre. Knit across the first 16 sts, knit one at the back and one at the front of the first 18 stitches, K16, knit one at the front and one at the back of the next stitch. Knit the 16 sts on the other needle, turn and knit back. Increase in the same way twice more with the plain row between. (This is just an ordinary increase of knit into back and front of same stitch — written today as inc.)

Now work only on the 24 sts on centre needle. Work 12 rows on these, then work a row decreasing by K2tog at the beginning and end of the row. Knit 12 rows. Work a row, decreasing by K2tog at the beginning and end of the row. Knit 12 rows.

Now pick up one stitch at the end of each ridge down each side of front, then work 6 rows on all stitches, cast off.
Sew the gaiter together up the back of the leg, and sew the cast on stitches at the under part of knee to the edge of the decreased rows. This will form a kind of gusset. Check the picture to see how it all comes together.

Full graphics version here

Esmerelda Jones… The Knitting Wench
Writer Of Desires
Writer Of Old Curiosities

Victoriana, Victorian Swoon, Gods & Goddesses: The Wisdom And Pleasures of Ancient Greece, Classic Romance, Poems For The Passionate, Whimsical Tales, Bushrangers & Australian Pioneer, Ghosts I Have Known, Gypsy Knitting. Ratings and comments delightfully accepted.

Ocean Heal Me

Ocean heal my wounds
Let your waves curl and foam on my body
Wash away blood, heal scars

Ocean renew me with your power
As unceasingly you roll
Giving strength that’s been drained

Ocean keep me warm
Wrap me in your brine
Caress me with your tides

Ocean disperse my tears
As they flow in you
I cleanse my soul

Ocean let me grow in your depths
Color me vibrant blue, coral, green
Clear = revitalized

Ocean your spray anoints me
Cool and refreshed
My spiritual renewal

Ocean be my friend
Hold me flowing in your currents
Ever moving, ever changing

Ocean, heal me.

© 1983 Susan Bacon

Susan Bacon is a researcher, author and teacher. You can contact her through http://www.ecoentrepreneur.org

How to make paper mache masks includes easy instructions for a zulu warrior, mummy mask or ghoul.

Create your own unique masks using these simple paper mache recipes and techniques.

Paper mache masks make great party favors, dress-up accessories, or decorations for a kids jungle party or Halloween party.

To see pictures of finished paper mache masks, visit this Paper Mache Mask Craft Page.

MATERIALS

One gallon plastic milk jug

Newspaper, torn into 1 inch by 6-8″ inch strips

White computer paper or paper towels,
torn into strips

Flour and water mixture for paper mache paste

Salt

Scissors and Craft Knife

Assorted colors of acrylic paint

Craft feathers (optional)

INSTRUCTIONS

Prepare Work Surface:

Prepare your work surface with a layer of newspaper you can discard, or an old plastic tablecloth you can wipe clean of goop and glops which are part of this messy project!

Tear several pages of newspaper into strips, approximately 1 inch wide by 6-8 inches long. Don’t try to be neat and cut them with scissors; the torn edges will adhere more closely and give a smoother overall surface to the finished project.

HOW TO MAKE PAPER MACHE PASTE:

This is our favorite recipe:

Mix one part flour with 5 parts water. Bring to a boil on the stovetop and simmer for 3 minutes. Add a tablespoon or two of salt to help prevent mold. You will have consistency like thick glue. Let cool and pour into a plastic left-over container.

Other Paper Mache Paste Recipe Options:

Recipe #1 - One part flour to two parts water. Squeeze out lumps and add tablespoon or two of salt as mold preventative.

Recipe #2 - 3/4 cup white glue to 1/4 cup water

Recipe #3 - liquid starch found at your supermarket

CUTTING THE MILK JUG:

With a pair of sharp scissors, cut the milk jug in half from top to bottom. You can use the handle side of the jug or the other side, whichever looks like it will produce the most interesting mask. Soak and remove any labels. Rinse and dry thoroughly.

Hold the jug half upside down and envision what your paper mache mask warrior will look like. The jug handle will serve as a nose. Using a craft knife, cut eye holes in the jug. You can make them round, triangular, or rectangles.

Use the natural lines, circles or other physical characteristics of your particular jug to enhance the design. We used the round indentations on the milk jug to make big saucer-like eyes on one of the masks pictured here. Use your imagination and have fun!

You can even cut the milk jug down one side, cut each side into 1/2 inch strips and roll them back to create the impressive mask shown here.

LAYERING:

Dip a newspaper strip into the flour mixture to coat, and apply it to the milk jug horizontally. Add another strip slightly overlapping the first. Continue this process until the entire jug is covered. Wrap short strips around the eyeholes from front to back of mask. Let the first layer dry completely.

Each layer will take up to 24 hrs. to dry, so cover your leftover flour mixture and place in the refrigerator overnight to prevent spoiling. When you’re ready for the next layer, just microwave it for about one minute. This way it’s nice and warm to work with!

Apply a second layer to the jug, this time angling the strips in a horizontal direction, and overlapping. This second and final layer should be made from torn strips of white computer paper. This allows for easier paint coverage when it’s time to decorate.

DECORATING:

Zulu Warrior

Now your paper mache mask is ready to paint and decorate. You may wish to paint a solid layer of one color first, then add details. Rings around the eyes, stripes and spots of different colors will add a wild look to your zulu warrior mask. Craft feathers can be hot glued to the top of the mask to add to the effect.

Mummy Mask

While doing this paper mache project, we discovered that the unpainted mask looks like a real mummy face, complete with the white (computer paper) wrapping! These make great Halloween party decorations!

Prepare jugs with one layer of paper mache, then let kids make their own mummy mask at your Halloween party. To add to the fun, tell them they’re using squishy mummy brains to make the mask! The paper mache paste is just the right texture to get kids imaginations in the slimy spirit of Halloween fun!

Alien Mask

The white mask with the large round eyeholes looks very much like the popular “Alien” or “Scream” character.

Ghoul Mask

Another great idea on how to make paper mache masks: Paint the mask totally green for a Halloween ghoul and use along with the mummy masks for Halloween decorations.

We hope you enjoy creating these fun and fearsome paper mache masks for kids parties, dress-up, or Halloween.

Patricia B. Jensen is a mother of three and kids party enthusiast. She is the webmaster and owner of Kids-Party-Paradise.com - a complete resource for kids party ideas including invitations, cakes, decorations, games, costumes, favors, and food. For all the latest party news, read her Kids Party Blog.

For centuries, the making of quilts and quilting has been a living craft, a necessity of the times, where people living in poverty could still provide something useful for their families.

All early quilts were made from any scraps of fabric that came to hand. Subsequently, over the years, basic designs for quilts and quilting evolved and were passed down from generation to generation. Now, with such a range of designs, the skill in choosing fabrics, matching patterns and colours is exciting whether the quilt to be made is patchwork, appliqué or whole cloth. (The difference between these will be explained).

The word quilt is English in origin, meaning a padded bed covering, but this definition hardly does justice to the quilts made in America by the early settlers. Given such wonderful names as Grandmothers Fan, Drunkards Path, Storm at Sea, Wedding Ring, Ohio Star, Log Cabin and Flock of Geese, our imagination is captured even before we see the quilt for real.

We can also imagine the circumstances in which the early quilters worked, with groups of women seated around the quilting frame, working together to create the finished quilt. Such groups had a great social significance and would often have a party-like atmosphere. Special quilts would be made for occasions like engagements and weddings, and ‘freedom quilts’ would be made and given to every young man on his twentieth birthday. Even today, the social significance of quilting remains, through the sharing of ideas and the spreading of designs to groups in all countries round the world.

When you start to make your own quilts you will find that the satisfaction of seeing your finished quilt is such a wonderful experience. You will feel a great sense of achievement as your skill and creativity begin to grow. I would recommend that you always sign and date your quilt and also give it a name, after all it is yours and it is unique. I must warn you though, that after finishing your first quilt you may be so captivated by the possibilities of all the other techniques that this will be the first of many you make over the years to come!

Quilt maker and designer for 30 years.

Annabel

Quilts and Quilting

Superhero action figures first stormed the doors of department stores and toy stores nearly 35 years ago. Constructed of various kinds of plastic and clothed in uniforms, costumes and capes G.I. Joe, Superman, Spiderman, the Lone Ranger and others marched, flew and rode off store shelves and into our lives. After short stops under the Christmas tree or at birthday parties, these action figures found their way into toy boxes and playrooms around the world.

These action figures did their superhero work of incredible feats, saving scores of lives and neutralizing villains. They accomplished these heroic deeds on lazy summer afternoons and rainy Saturday mornings in front of the TV set. Too often, they also needed our help after school when we were supposed to be doing homework.

These superheroes were always our friends and they helped us through our childhoods. They taught us to share, to value friendships and that good will triumph over evil. Perhaps, most importantly, they stretched our imaginations and made us believe that anything was possible. These mighty action figures were invincible to everything but time. Time finally did them in. Or did it?

For more and more people, these action figures are returning to superhero status. The Star Trek crew along with Power Rangers, the Star Wars characters and transformers are popping up in offices, dens and family rooms everywhere. These action figures have become collectibles.

The most popular of these action figures include G.I. Joe, Captain Action, the Six Million Dollar Man, the Lone Ranger and the Mego line of action figures. These include characters from Super Heroes, Planet of the Apes, Star Trek, Happy Days, CHIPs, Monsters and others. There were literally hundreds of different action figures produced during the decades of the ‘70s and ‘80s.

The action figures come in different sizes. Just as with other collectibles, size, condition, original popularity and whether or not the figure is readily available now all come together to determine price. Prices are all over the board. Some of these figures have been known to sell for thousands of dollars. Others go for a few hundred. Most are in the $10 to $100 range.

Action Figures Make Great Collectibles

How do you know what to pay? There are a number of sources for current price information for these action figures. One important source is toy magazines such as “Toyfare” and “Lee’s Action Figure News”. There are also dozens of websites that have pricing information. More good sources are the online auction sites, such as eBay.

The auction websites are also great places to buy these action figures. Numbers of these toys are sold on these sites every day. You can determine the condition, see what other people are bidding and then make a bid. The top online auctions are safe places to do business.

These action figures crop up in other places as well, just waiting for the opportunity to march into your collection. You can find them in flea markets and sometimes in antique shops. You can buy them from other collectors, at garage sales and estate auctions. There are dozens of toy shows around the country where dealers and individuals buy and sell collections.

You will find these action figure toys in every conceivable condition from mint in the box condition to pieces of the original toy. There is a rating system to help collectors determine condition that runs from condition C-1 through C-10. The very best condition is mint in box or mint on card. These toys are in the original box or bubble wrap card. They are in exactly the same condition today as the day they were first packaged. They are, of course, the most valuable.

One of the first steps in collecting action figures is to decide which toys to collect. A good place to start is with your favorites when you were a kid. Collections will be more valuable if you have complete sets. For example, you might build a collection of a complete set of the Marvel Comics heroes. Part of the fun is putting these collections together – acquiring hard-to-find figures in a set.

The next step is taking care of your collection of action figures. If you are lucky enough to find a toy sealed in the original box or package, leave it in the box. Do not open it. Display your toys on a shelf or in a cabinet where they will be kept dry, out of direct sunlight. You will also need to keep these toys above the reach of your own youngsters. They will be just as tempted to play with them as you were.

Finally, enjoy your collection. Owning these action figure superheroes will bring back many of the wonderful feelings of those carefree days before mortgage payments and college tuition bills. The dollar value of your collection is likely secondary to assembling the collection and enjoying its aesthetic value. Even so, your collection will almost certainly become more valuable in time, especially if you can assemble entire sets.

These action figure superheroes are reminders of your childhood and will serve to tell your children and grandchildren a little about whom you are and how you learned that good triumphs over evil. Somehow it is comforting to know that Superman, G.I. Joe and the Lone Ranger are still fighting crime and saving lives.

About the author: Royce Armstrong is a successful freelance writer with a business and banking background who believes consumers should get the best value for their money when shopping for action figures, superheroes and creative toys.

The first thing to do is get those photos out of the magnetic albums immediately and throw away the albums. That takes care of a lot of it right there. But then you might have some pictures that are stuck! You’ll want to remove them very carefully, maybe with a letter opener or a butter knife as they might tear. If they are very valuable to you, take them to a photo shop and have them do it for you.

Next you will want to sort your pictures out chronologically and by subject or person. You might want to work from the present and go back, since recent events are much easier to remember.

If you want to scrap them, start from the present also and use archivally safe materials. All materials should be acid-free with a ph level of 7 or above. Acids might cause discoloring of paper, become inflexible, and eventually become brittle as time passes. It can also destroy photographs or other memorabilia it comes into contact with. Your memories are precious to you and you’ll want preserve them properly to pass them on from generation to generation.

If you’re just starting out with scrapbooking, you will also need an acid-free adhesive, a paper cutter, acid-free pen, and of course acid-free cardstock and patterned paper.

Journaling is very important in a scrapbook. It tells the “story” of the photos. Remember that your journaling should include the who, what, when, where and why or else it is really of no interest to the generations that follow if they don’t know who the person is or the story behind it.

The photos that you have not scrapped yet should be placed in an acid free photo box and properly labeled. If you have as many photos as I do, then you will know why this is very important to sort and label everything. It saves a lot of time, confusion and chaos.

Make sure you only put your favorite or best photos in a scrapbook. If they are blurry or too dark or light, it’s not likely to look any better in a scrapbook. Although you can crop or cut your own photos improving them to a certain extent. The person or object may appear larger or you might want to just cut off objects or people that do not belong in the picture.

When using cardstock or patterned paper, make sure that you color coordinate the paper with the picture and mat the photo. Matting a photo means adhering the photo to a piece of cardstock slightly larger than the photo creating a small frame around it. This emphasizes the photo and makes it stand out.

There are various embellishments you can use to give your layout an added touch, such as, eyelets, buttons, ribbons, metal letters or other objects, clips, brads, snaps, hinges, stickers, diecuts, embossing, vellum, etc. This list is very long! Have fun getting started!

Jacqueline M. Schimmel is a Professional Scrapbook Designer who designs custom scrapbooks, cards and invitations for any occasion including exclusive gifts. The name of her business is Memories Artwork located at http://www.memoriesartwork.com.

Giving gifts does not need to be a heavy task. Giving the proper gift is so simple when you choose to give a specialty gift basket. If you do not know what kind of specialty gift basket is right to give, discover what the receiver wants. Like for instance, are they fond of gardens? Do they love to read? Do they like to pet a fish?

You can easily find the particular specialty gift basket once you know something about what fascinates them. However, if you are giving it to a person you do not know that well, giving an office gift with a big floral basket can be ideal for your choice. Always remember that gift basket comes in an attractive package. It can also give a remarkable impression.

The following are some of the specialty gift baskets that could greatly help you:

• Corporate Gift Baskets

If you are looking forward to make an impression to a customer or to your officemates, a corporate gift basket will help you find an adequate basket.

• New Baby Gift Baskets

This basket is good during baby showers and christening. It is a great additional to some of the much need and longed-for items that the new parents can use. Wrapped your gift in this wonderful basket to let the new family know about how you care.

• Wedding Gift Baskets

Wedding basket is a perfect gift for a newly wed couple. The design of the basket includes a number of mementos that will be cherished for the coming years.

• Housewarming Gift Baskets

To make this more ideal, fill the basket with scented candles, flowers and other household supplies. The basket comes in great selection of beautifully created baskets to let the receiver know that you congratulate them for possessing a new home.

• Sympathy Gift Basket

This basket is ideal if you are sending it to someone who greatly needs your sympathy. It usually comes full of comforting foods that will let your receiver know how much you value him or her.

• Wine and Cheese Gift Baskets

The basket is perfect especially if you are planning to surprise your partner during anniversaries and other special occasions. They come in different styles and designs so it will not be hard to find one for your lover.

• Holiday Gift Baskets

This comes in different designs to suit any Holiday. Select the one that suits the occasion for a more thoughtful and enjoying Holiday gift.

With all these available baskets to choose from, it won’t be hard for you to select which one is best for your receiver. Rest assured, your receiver would not only thank you for it but also praise you for your good taste.

Birth, Death and Marriage Records

The foundation of genealogy or family history research is birth, death and marriage records. It is these vital records of life’s significant events that we turn to when we begin to seek out the knowledge of our ancestry. These public records and others such as the Social Security Death Index (SSDI), offer access to genealogical information that may not be available from any other source.

The Social Security Death Records constitute a data base of around 65/70 million names, most of which belong to the period from 1962 to 1988. This library of archived data is being constantly added to.

Using these family search tools you should be able to:

• Distinguish between people with the same name
• Identify your ancestors
• Establish birth, death and marriage data, such as dates and places
• Learn the occupation and place of residence of ancestors
• Prove/disprove the validity of other records
• Find subtle clues to assist your research

If family history (genealogical research) is something that you are just becoming interested in, then the best place to start is with yourself. Write your own name on a piece of paper with your birth date and place, and now add what you know about your parents and grandparents, and so on, until you have exhausted your immediate knowledge.

Next, if your parents are alive and you can meet with them face to face, take a piece of paper with you and have them exhaust their knowledge of names, dates and places. Repeat this with all living relatives. Write to those you cannot visit.

Leo Talbot is an experienced genealogist that enjoys helping others in their search for their ancestors.

Search vital records and social security death records to find your ancestors.

Creating wooden keepsake boxes, children’s jewelry boxes, inlaid music boxes, and other types of musical movements can be a joy, especially when one is doing it himself or herself. However, there is an important step to consider when putting the music box together; it is choosing the movement accessories. These accessories include shafts/extenders, animation, turntables, winding keys, accessory shaft washers, cranks, rocking action, and musical mobile holder cases.

Shaft and Extenders

Left-handed shafts typically are placed into a special accessory hole on the side of an 18-note key-wind musical movement. When used, it becomes permanent. The key extenders extend the length of the winding key.

Animation

The 18-note key-wind musical movement can be fitted with several animation accessories. For example, the waggie shaft, covered with an accordion sleeve, allows it to rotate inside the sleeve instead of inside the figure, while the circular motion rod can be easily bent to create a neat orbital flying motion. There is a flat pad on the rod’s tip where figurines can be glued.

Turntables

Turntables typically come in clear plastic, opaque plastic, and metal. The left-handed turntable can be used to fit the left-handed shaft or shaft extender. Turntable can be used as winding keys as well when figurines are glued to them.

Winding Keys

All music boxes that are created must have a winding key unless a turntable is used in its place. Winding keys typically are in brass or nickel plated finish and come in different sizes. Typical winding keys include the T-bar, Triangle, and Miniature. There even is a childproof safety winding key that when installed becomes a permanent part of the music box. If one has a child who will have access to the music box, this would be a good fixture to have.

Accessory Shaft Washers

These washers are placed on the outside of the music movement housing. This would be a good thing to utilize if one uses plush toys or dolls as part of the music box. It helps prevent fibers from being caught in the accessory hole and getting wrapped around the shaft.

Cranks

A crank is a music accessory that produces motions such as swinging, pumping, sawing, rocking, and up and down motions.

Rocking Action

If one were looking into making music boxes with figurines such as rocking horses and chairs, this would be the perfect music movement accessory.

Musical Mobile Holder Cases

The musical mobile holder cases would be just right for a musical mobile for a baby’s crib. These movements and holder cases usually are not sold together, but separately. This holder case would work well using an 18-note key-wind musical movement.

Creating music boxes takes special care and also are fun to do. Whether it is a wooden keepsake box, children’s jewelry box, or any other type of whimsical box, why not create your first one today?

Copyright 2006 Monique Hawkins

Established in May of 2005, http://www.My-Music-Box.com is a music box gift store specializing in products such as inlaid ballerina music boxes for ballerina rooms décor, whimsical carousel music boxes, and musical jewelry boxes. The company provides interesting information for music lovers of all ages. Owner Monique Hawkins is also the author of the blog “What You Never Knew About Music” http://whatyouneverknewaboutmusic.blogspot.com , and owner of the eBay store “Monique’s Music Box” at: http://stores.ebay.com/Moniques-Music-Box Monique can be contacted at (540) 858-2885.

One vivid memory of my very early childhood back in the 1960’s was of driving to church on Sunday mornings with my family. Since my grandparents lived close to us, Dad would always swing by and pick them up, and we’d all carpool together. It was the job of “Little Danny” (as I was affectionately nicknamed back then) to sit in the backseat, wedged snugly between Grandpa and Grandma.

As if some sort of ritual, every Sunday Grandma would fish though her purse to find goodies for me and my older brother. Grandma almost always carried Wrigley’s chewing gum, though once in a while we had to settle for a cherry-flavored cough drop. For a bonus treat, Grandma gave each grandson a coin to go in the piggybank. There were a few instances when I received a dime featuring a lady who sported a wild-looking hairdo, or at least that’s how it appeared to a 4-year-old. On one occasion, Grandma explained to me the coin was called a Mercury dime. She was a coin collector of sorts, and I credit her with encouraging my first interest in coins. Even though it didn’t mean much to me at the time, this was my first lesson on Mercury dimes.

With the passage of years, I gathered more knowledge on Mercury dimes. For example, I learned the face on the obverse really wasn’t that of Mercury, the male Roman messenger god, as the public has largely believed ever since the dime was first released in 1916. Instead, the coin’s designer, A.A. Weinman, intended to portray a rendition of Lady Liberty crowned by a winged cap, to symbolize liberty of thought. However, the “Mercury dime” moniker stuck, and is still by far the most common reference for this beautiful ten cent coin. The correct name, Winged Liberty Head dime, is used much less frequently. Oh well, at least I can congratulate myself, for even as a small child, I was able to recognize the person on the dime as a woman, not a man!

Another important fact about Mercury dimes worth mentioning is that back when Grandma was coin collecting, not much attention was focused on the degree of separation and roundness seen in the horizontal bands holding together the bundle of rods on the reverse side. Full Split Bands (abbreviated “FSB”) resulted from striking by fresh dies, and have proven to be much rarer than blended, flattened bands. Generally speaking, if a Mercury dime displays fully separated and rounded bands, it can generate prices far above less distinctive specimens of the same date, mintmark, and grade. For the last 10-15 years, most Mercury dime value guides have carried an FSB category for mint state grades.

Recently, I decided to chart the value trends of Mercury dimes over a long period of time, for the purpose of identifying Mercs that have historically demonstrated the best gains. My theory is that coins that have shown the strongest price increases consistently in the past are the same coins most likely to accomplish the same in the years ahead. I don’t advocate purchasing Mercury dimes or any other coins for the sake of measuring ROI, but speaking for myself, if I ever decide to add to my Mercury dime collection, I want to make selections designed to (A) please my numismatic taste buds, and (B) stimulate competitive bidding amongst future generations of collectors.

To quantify past performance and to evaluate Mercury dimes best positioned to experience strong future price advancements, I called upon a mathematical analysis I developed to reach similar objectives for other coin series.

First, I researched Mercury dime retail values for individual coins as they were reported in the year 1950, covering a wide range of conditions, and entered this data on a computer spreadsheet. Moving forward in time, values from the years 1980, 1995, and 2000 were similarly captured. Finally, estimated selling prices in 2005 were placed adjacent to matching data from those earlier years. Because grading terminology has evolved over the 55 year period, certain assumptions were made to progressively track price movements throughout the time spectrum (e.g. an “Uncirculated” value in 1950 is equivalent to the “MS-60” of today). The highest grade inserted into the analysis was MS-65, for which I was able to list relatively complete data starting in the 1995 data column. Because I deemed “FSB” data to be somewhat sporadic, I elected not to include it in this study for the sake of stability.

For each date and condition, compounded annual return rates were computed from 1950 to 2005. Return rate computations were likewise made from 1980 to 2005, 1995 to 2005, and 2000 to 2005. For each Mercury dime, the data was placed in tabular format. Next, I calculated a “composite” score for each date by averaging all the compounded return rates computed for that date. I then ranked all the “composite” scores. The Mercury dimes with the top five highest scores are:

Date:………..Score:

1916-D……….7.71

1942 (2 Over 1)….7.64

1921-D……….4.90

1945-S (Micro)….4.58

1942-D (2 Over 1)….4.39

It should surprise no one that the kingpin of the Mercury dime series is the 1916-D. Long considered one of the classic rarities of the 20th century and a favorite of collectors, we now have some statistical evidence to support this claim. Experienced Mercury dime collectors probably would expect to see the other dates making the “Top Five”, though the 1945-S (Micro) will cause some head scratching. At the opposite end of performance, there is a logjam of dimes crowded into the 2.50-3.50 range. The value of these coins is dominated by their silver bullion content and merit only small numismatic premiums, with the exception of higher grade specimens.

Okay, let’s say you’re fascinated with the history and style of the Mercury dime. You’ve decided its time to add a few to your coin gallery, yet at the same time, you’re afraid of spending money on something doomed to stagnate in value over time. Bottom line solution: purchase a member of the “Top Five” ranked above. Yes, they’re a bit pricey, but instead of buying many of the less expensive Mercury dimes, save your cash and get a single example of a proven winner. You will be pleased with this strategy as the years roll buy. Buy the absolute best grade you can afford, and always, always obtain coins that are problem-free and CERTIFIED by a reputable grading service. Sadly, many fakes and alterations exist.

Thinking back again to those childhood days, I can’t begin to remember what happened to most of the coins Grandma gave me on our Sunday morning drives. Somehow, over the decades, I’ve managed to keep preserved in a special place a tiny handful of Grandma’s Mercury dimes. All common dates, there’s not a 1916-D in the bunch, but their sentimental value to me is incalculable. These coins were a heartfelt gift from someone close to me who departed from this world long ago and they helped inspire in “Little Danny” a lifelong enchantment with a wonderful hobby.

You know, come to think of it, let me add one more bit of advice: while you’re bagging a “Top Five” Mercury dime, you ought to stop by the Bargain Bin and pull out a few 1944-D’s for your children and grandchildren. You just never know what you might get started.

About the Author: Daniel J. Goevert is the webmaster of US Coin Values Advisor, specializing in coin value trends and listing bullish US coins. The site also includes detailed coin collecting advice and an illustrated history of the US Mint.